Tubular Herringbone Bead Stitch Bracelet Tutorial

Herringbone bead stitch forms a pattern where the beads join in a V shape similar to the central spine of a fish. 

There are several different versions including flat herringbone bead stitch, tubular herringbone bead stitch (this tutorial), twisted tubular herringbone stitch and circular herringbone stitch. 

Herringbone bead stitch is also sometimes known as Ndebele stitch after the African tribe that specializes in the stitch.

Tubular herringbone is used to make a flexible, hollow rope of beads. The diameter of the bead rope depends on the number of groups of stitches used.

It can be made with many different types and sizes of beads. You can even mix the types of beads used in a single rope to achieve very interesting effects. 

The materials used in this project tutorial are listed below including links to similar products on Amazon. If you make a purchase using these links, I may get a small commision at no cost to you.

• three different colors of Preciosa size 11 seed beads
• 6 lb Fireline bead thread in crystal
• size 11 Tulip brand beading needle

I find that a stiff thread like FireLine (or a fishing line style of thread) works better for herringbone stitch than a supple nylon or silk thread. For more information on choosing thread, you might find this article What is the Best Thread for Beading helpful.

Herringbone bead stitch is worked on a base row of ladder stitch. For tubular herringbone, it is worked on a base row of circular ladder stitch.

To make the first row, pick up two beads, ladder stitch them together and continue adding beads one at a time with ladder stitch until you have a beaded ladder the desired size with an even number of beads. Herringbone stitch uses pairs of beads in each stitch, so you must have an even number of beads in the base row.

In this example, the base of this tubular herringbone bracelet has 6 beads, two beads in each of three colors.

Note that it can be difficult to hold onto such a small ring of bead to start your project. Since writing this tutorial, I have found it much easier to start tubular herringbone on a base of either 2 or 3 bead ladder stitch.

Once your ladder stitch base is long enough, make a ladder stitch connecting the first beads in the ladder stitch with the last beads, forming a circle. The working thread is coming from one side of the beadwork and the tail thread is coming from the other side.

For every stitch of tubular herringbone, you will pick up two beads and stitch down through the next bead to the side on the row below. Then position your needle for the next stitch by going up through the next bead to the side in the circle.

For this example, each two bead column is a different color, so it is easy to keep track of when to pick up the next color bead, where to stitch down (it will be the same color as the beads you are working with) and then move over and stitch up into the next color on the same row.

Start by picking up two brown beads, stitch down through the next brown bead in the base ladder stitch ring, and position the thread for the next stitch by going up through the red bead in the base ring. The two new beads you added need to be separated so they lie flat with one bead stacked on each of the beads on the base row. Continue adding beads and stitching in this manner until you are back to where you added the first beads. Then you are ready to step up to the next row.

For the first few stitches, you may find it difficult to keep the beads stacked on the thread taut. You will be able to tighten it up once you complete the first round, so don’t stress over it.

At the end of each row of tubular herringbone, you will step up to get in position for the next round.  The step up is simply stitching through the first bead of the row and the first bead you just added - so stitching up through two beads instead of one.

In this tubular herringbone example, the step up always occurs when positioning for the next stitch with the brown beads in the row.

Once you are done with the first row of herringbone stitch, your tube may look flat like this picture.  Not to worry.  The tube will begin to take place in the next couple of rounds.  

One unusual feature of tubular herringbone is that the new row of beads is connected to the row beneath in a column format and not stitched together until the next round.

Continue tubular herringbone stitch by picking up two more beads, stitching down into the next bead and up the next bead.

Step up by stitching through two beads at the end of the round.  The tube is starting to take shape!

Be sure to adjust the two beads you add in each step so they separate and lie flat on the the two beads underneath.  You can do this by twisting them with your needle.  Another way that seems faster to me, is by changing the way you do your stitch. Pick up two beads, slide them all the way down to the beadwork, and then stitch down through the next bead. For whatever reason, the beads seem to slide into place this way better than if you pick up the beads and stitch into the next bead while the new beads are still on your needle. Give it a try and see which way works best for you.

 After adding the third round of tubular herringbone, your beadwork will start to form the familiar tubular shape.

Continue the tubular herringbone stitch until your rope is long enough. This picture shows the familiar herringbone alignment of the beads as well as the open end where the columns of the most recent round of stitches are not yet connected. 

There are a variety of ways to finish tubular herringbone stitch.  Many artists will make the most of the open ends to make beaded flower petals or other decorative accents.  As a beginner, the easiest way to end tubular herringbone stitch is the same way you started, with a row of ladder stitch.

Simply stitch down into the next bead and back to the prior row so they connect and close up the tube.  Continue ladder stitch around the top row of beads until the tube is connected.

Once you have ladder stitched all the way around the end, you will have an even and neat beaded edge on the beginning and the end of the herringbone tube.

Tubular herringbone is extremely versatile and looks great with a variety of types of beads.  Cylinder beads will stitch a little differently and can be difficult to get your needle in between the beads, especially on the step up at the end of the row.  

Tubular herringbone looks especially good in ropes with alternating sections of different beads. You also don't need to be limited to ropes. You can also make herringbone beads. This is a good way to use up small leftovers of thread and beads at the end of a project. The larger white bead in the photo above is peyote stitch - so you can see the different orientation of tubular peyote and herringbone.

Remember that you can start the tubular herringbone with a two (or more) bead ladder stitch.  Instead of one bead in each ladder stitch, you would join two beads together.  If you look closely, that is how the gray cylinder rope was started.  The advantage is that it is slightly easier to hold the beadwork since you have twice as many beads to grip in the beginning.

There are many options to finish the ends of these ropes. I chose to use a bead loop clasp, you'll find the tutorial at the link.

The short version is that you add a few beads on one end of the thread, then your closure bead, and weave into the rope and repeat this thread path a couple of times to reinforce and add strength. The set of larger beads will give you space to maneuver the clasp open and closed, so make sure to plan for it when weaving your rope.

On the opposite end of the thread, add a few larger beads, then a bead loop that fits snugly over the chosen clasp bead, and go back through the larger beads. Weave through the herringbone rope and then reinforce the loop closure by repeating the thread path a couple of times. 

Tie off the thread ends with half hitch knots and snip the thread end close. You'll find instructions to make half hitch knots in this step by step tutorial 4 Knots Every Jewelry Maker or Beader Needs to Know.