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| Square stitch beading looks just like it was made on a beading loom |
Square stitch is an off-loom bead-weaving stitch that looks like loom beadwork, with beads that are stacked both vertically and horizontally in rows and columns. Square stitch is perfect to make smaller beadwork components where it would be more time consuming to warp a loom and weave in multiple thread ends.
Square stitch beadwork is durable, more so than loomed beadwork. That is because there are more thread passes than in loom beadwork. You can design square stitch patterns using the same bead graph paper that you use for loom beading or use square stitch to make loom beadwork designs.
Square stitch takes a long time to make a piece of beadwork. For large projects, it may make sense to use a loom instead.
Materials used for this square stitch tutorial:
- Miyuki size 11 rocaille beads
- FireLine 6 lb thread in Crystal
- John James size 12 beading needle
- Thread snips
Square stitch can be made with most types of seed beads. It can even be done with larger beads, such as fire polish crystals. It does not work well with oval shape seed beads with thin edges like Czech beads since they don't stack on their outer edges well. Consistent size and shape beads such as Japanese cylinder beads work well with square stitch. The only drawback with cylinder beads is that it can be harder to get your needle between the beads for each stitch.
In addition to beads, you will need beading thread and beading needles. Almost any beading thread can be used, but it needs to be able to fit multiple passes through the beads you are using. (Read this article for more information about which type of beading thread is best.) The same is true of the beading needle - it must be able to pull the thread through the beads multiple times without the possibility of breaking the beads or getting stuck.
I like to use nylon threads Nymo size D or KO beading thread (which comes in lots of amazing colors) for a more flexible finished product. Fishing line style threads like WildFire or FireLine also work so long as the bead holes are large enough. They result in a stiffer piece of beadwork. Tulip needles (these are expensive, but worth it) or John James beading needles are both great options for square stitch. There are many other types of beading needles, but these are flexible enough to maneuver into the beads but resist bending and breaking like some other needles do. (The links in this paragraph are to these products on Amazon).
Start square stitch by stringing a stop bead (turquoise). Leave about a five-inch tail thread to hold on to your beadwork and weave in at the end.
Pick up all of the beads for the first row of your beadwork plus the first bead of the next row. For example, the beadwork sample pictured has 10 beads in each row. To start, pick up 11 beads, which is the 10 beads for the base row (yellow) plus the first bead of the second row (cobalt).
To make the first square stitch, put your needle back through the second to last seed bead you just added (yellow).
Pull the thread tight so these two beads are stacked on one top of the other.
Stitch back through the last bead you added.
You have completed the first square stitch and your needle and thread are in position to add the next stitch.
Pick up the next bead in the design. Stitch down through the bead directly underneath it from the previous row.
Stitch back up through the bead just added. Pull thread snugly so that the beads sit stacked on top of each other.
As you are stitching back through the bead you just added, guide the thread between the beads on the new row. The thread can wrap around the beadwork as you tighten which is difficult to fix if you notice it later. (this picture is taken in between the two above)
Continue adding beads in the same manner until you are done with the row.
This step is optional, but it really helps the beaded rows lay straight if you reinforce them after every two rows. To do this, stitch back down through the entire first row of beads.
Then stitch back through the entire second row.
Pull the thread taut and keep the tension consistent. You can skip this step if there isn’t enough room in the beads for another thread pass or if you are satisfied with the alignment of the beads.
The thread is now in position to start the next row of square stitch.
After you finish a row, flip the beadwork to continue. Then repeat the process to add new beads.
Do you ever think to yourself - all this is great, but how do you hold the beadwork while you're working on it?
Well, this is how I do it. I hold the beads or tail thread between my fingers and work from the bottom towards the top. I find this to be the most natural position.
After the first half of the stitch, I pull the thread to the side and slide it between the new bead and the bead below it before I stitch up into the newly added bead.
One last tip. It can be difficult to get your needle between the beads on the prior row, especially when you are using cylinder or cube beads that lay more flush next to each other. In that case, gently bend the beadwork, as shown above, to make more room for the needle to slide into place.
What will you make with square stitch?
If you'd like a simple beginner project, I recommend my tutorial for this butterfly which makes interesting earrings or a fun necklace pendant. There's a free tutorial that includes the pattern and tips on how to follow a square stitch (or bead loom) pattern.
Other articles you might enjoy:
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